Episode 37 (Feb 1-15 )
 
 

I made some great progress this week. The car is completely painted and things are bolting back on. I spent most of my spare time either wet-sanding or buffing the paint to an acceptable shine. The final paint job turned out far better than I expected, a bit of patience and the right equipment actually made it pretty easy. It's going to look pretty respectable driving around town this spring!

First Coats

I put two heavy coats of paint on all the components of the car. I'm amazed at how good the paint looks, it appears all the sanding and prep work has paid off.
 

 

Wet Sanding

After a few days of drying, I wet sanded out all the dust specs and high spots. The paint is thick enough to sand out most of the small imperfections, this is the final chance to fix any problems before the final coat.

Maybe Too Thick

I wanted a good thick coat on the car to make the wet sanding easier, in some spots I went a little too far. The runs have to be very carefully sanded out so as to not sand the surrounding area to far. Eventually this run was completely removed.
 

 

 

Final Coat

After the whole car was sanded evenly with 600 grit paper, I spent nearly a day getting the shop and the car as dust free as possible before painting. The final coat went on nicely, no runs, very little dust and a nice even sheen.

Finishing Process

To get the final surface, I had to wet-sand the entire car down with 2000 grit paper. This removed all the dust and over-spray from the final coat. I then compounded the sanded surface to a dull glass with the orbital buffer.
 

 


The Process

To get the final gloss, a series of compounds are used to progressively polish the paint. In the 3M system, you compound out the 2000 grit sandpaper marks, then remove the swirls left by the buffer and finally apply a glaze that gives the paint a lovely shine.

Reassembly

It's a real pleasure attaching the freshly painted parts back into position with nice new screws and bolts. This is part of the hinge for the engine compartment lid.
 

 

Rear Lid in Place

After a bit of a fight, the rear lid fit onto the car perfectly. There is a brand new seal running around the edge of the lid to tightly seal the engine compartment. The catch and license plate light fit on with new seals as well.

The Bonnet Too

The hood closes with a catch located under the handle at the extreme nose of the car. An enclosed cable had to be run from the catch to the driver's area to release the hood. I bought a used catch on eBay that seems to work fine. The handles on the 1967 car were completely unique to the car and this one on the hood is the correct original part
 

 

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